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Now you know as much as I do. The rest of this is more illustrative than informative.
I don’t know what I was expecting: stripper poles and red neon, maybe. But the bar was nothing like that. It was a small, nondescript room, not obviously “sexy”. A counter ran around three sides of the room. I don’t think the place could have held more than a dozen customers at a time. When we arrived it was empty apart from three businessmen sitting at the counter, talking to a girl. Two other girls, pretty rather than extraordinarily beautiful, waited behind the bar with nothing to do.
When we came in there were the expected glances back-and-forth, silently asking who was going to have to talk to the waegukin. The cash register faced the entrance. We walked up to it and looked at the menu, and I was surprised and relieved by the prices. There were 100,000 won bottles of spirits, but also the familiar Hite and Cass at 6,000 won a bottle: expensive, but not extraordinarily so. KH said we should order three bottles: one each, and one for the girl. We ordered them and sat at an empty stretch of the bar.
As it turned out, though, one of the girls was quite happy to talk to the foreigner. Her name was SeMi, and she spoke pretty good English, which I hadn’t expected. She poured our drinks, including one for herself. One thing that surprised me was that there was no slight-of-hand with the drinks. Although we had bought three bottles, she opened and poured from each of them in turn; she was clearly drinking the same beer as us, not coloured water. I wondered how much these girls ended up drinking in a given night, and how they handled it.
SeMi was attentive and gamely flirtatious, in that teasing Korean way. KH mentioned that I’d just got a room at a love motel, and she jokingly asked me for the room number. For the most part it was a normal conversation. When the range of topics I could talk to her about in our pool of shared language started to fade, KH talked to her in Korean. KH and I also talked to each other, while she listened. From time-to-time one of the other girls would wander over, apparently mostly for the novelty of hearing SeMi talk in English, then wander off again.
At one point KH and I were discussing where I would go the next day. I was on vacation at the time, on one of my unplanned trips around Korea via the bus network. I didn’t know where I would head to the next day and asked him for suggestions. KH suggested a couple of cities, and we asked SeMi for her suggestions, too.
This gave SeMi an idea. From behind the bar she produced a game. It was a circular pad of paper cards on a spinning roulette wheel; think Wheel of Fortune. She drew radiating lines on the card, segmenting it into wedges. In those wedges, she wrote the names of the cities we had been discussing as possibilities.
She also added a few impractical possibilities: North Korea (with SeMi) and Japan (with SeMi).
Finally, she added two extremely narrow wedges which spanned no more than a couple of degrees. In these, she wrote “SeMi house” and “Motel (with SeMi)”. We were ready to play the game.
In order to make the game last longer, I made a suggestion. Instead of spinning the wheel once, we should spin it and each time cross off one of the possibilities. Whichever suggestion was left at the end would be where I would go the next day. SeMi agreed.
At this, KH started to laugh and whispered to me, “You are very smart.” I guess I’m not as smart as him, because it took me a while to realize what he had seen instantly – that by changing the game in this way, I had turned those ulta-narrow wedges from unlikely possibilities to very, very likely ones.
After a few spins, SeMi realized the same thing, and began acting nervously – or mock-nervously. Eventually it came down to two possibilities: SeMi’s house and Buan, a small seaside city in Jeollabuk-do. The wheel came up with SeMi’s house, which was crossed off, probably to everyone’s relief, and it was decided that I would go to Buan the next day.
After that, while KH and SeMi talked, I looked at the Wheel of Fortune game. Beneath our card was another, and I puzzled through the Korean. It gave me a sense of how things went on a busier night. The card was divided in a similar way to our card, with large segments and three narrow segments. The large segments had things like this:
Person to the left drinks.
Everybody else drinks.
The narrow segments read ?? – kiss – and ??, which I thought just meant “kiss”, but which possibly has some different connotation to the Konglish version of “kiss”. The third was a word I didn’t recognise, and I asked SeMi what it meant.
“Sex,” she said. The words they don’t teach you in language class…
I wasn’t sure how seriously to take all this. What would have happened if my card had come up with SeMi’s house? What if the other card came up with sex? Was this really how she spent her night – gambling her body on a wheel of fortune game? I don’t know the answers to that.
I talked to SeMi about her life. She was a university grad student, studying ceramics. I asked her if she had any photographs of her ceramics, and she showed me some on her phone. I’m no expert in ceramics, but to my eye they were really good. They were delicate and beautiful.
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